Do you know where your food comes from? These days the food on your plate has likely traveled hundreds if not thousands of miles to reach your table. Sure, it allows you to enjoy something almost, but not totally, unlike a tomato year 'round, but it comes at a cost. First, it's spent a lot of time and used a lot of fuel to get from where ever it was grown to where you are. This means that in the case of produce, it was likely picked before it was ripe, and it has probably been genetically modified to emphasize the ability to travel well, not necessarily to taste great. Finally, it's caused the production of food to be concentrated in huge factory farming operations designed for the mass market. Granted, this has given us access to some of the cheapest food in the world, but I think we've lost something in the bargain. I could list many advantages of locally produced food and wine, but for me, the advantages are getting fresher and tastier food, more diversity in selections, and knowing that we haven't wasted energy hauling food half way around the world. It also allows us to get to know the people who produce what goes on our tables.
Why am I going on about eating and drinking locally? Last Thursday, Rachel and I had a special dinner at The Dundee Bistro in honor of their 10th anniversary. Dundee is right in the middle of Oregon wine country and has been described as a little town with one stop light and three gourmet restaurants. Chef Jason Stoller Smith joined the Bistro in 2002 and focuses on regional dishes that highlight the best seasonal and sustainably farmed local ingredients. In honor of their 10th anniversary, they put on a 4 course lamb feast paired with Ponzi wines. The lamb all came from SuDan Farm in Canby, and owners Dan and Suzie Wilson (Su-Dan, get it?) were on hand to talk about their farm and share their passion for lamb. Rachel and I had a long chat with Susie before dinner started and found out about how their operation works and got some good recipe tips. I sat next to Dan during the dinner itself and got all my questions about lamb answered. In reference to wanting lamb that tasted "lambier" or gamier, Dan suggested that we may want an older animal. He said that he'd be happy to work with us to get a young sheep (about a year old) and provide us with parted and frozen locker lamb. I think we'll take him up on that as soon as we're done with the lamb we have (which is getting close).
The food was amazing. Jason chose to use less popular cuts of the lamb and present them in unusual ways. The first course was a pepper cured lamb neck that had been rolled into a cylinder, slowly braised, then cut into inch thick slices. The slices were then breaded and fried, and served with a leek purée and black truffle aioli. The lamb was tender and flavorful, although the leek purée seemed to be missing something. This was paired with the 2008 Ponzi Pinot Gris - a nice crisp wine with nice acidity.
The second course was a bowl of lamb shoulder polpettini (little meatballs) with Parmesan brodo (broth) with shredded asparagus and blue lake beans. The broth was rich and flavorful and the shredded veggies were cooked perfectly. The meatballs were good, but again, I was looking for perhaps bolder flavors. This course was paired with 2006 Ponzi Chardonnay Reserve done in 10% new oak. It was crisp with a smooth mouthfeel without being buttery.
The main course was a lamb shank confit served with English peas and a Niçoise olive and caper vinaigrette. The lamb was very tender and flavorful and the peas were cooked perfectly - firm but not crunchy. This course was paired with the 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, a light elegant Pinot with a hint of smokiness.
The cheese course was last, and it was amazing. Jason had asked Dan for some lamb belly which he cured and smoked to create lamb bacon! He crisped the bacon and served it over Cypress Grove fromage blanc in endive with red grapes gremolata. Hmmm, was that bacon tasty! It turned out so well, that it will probably appear occasionally on the Bistro's bacon tasting menu (ya gotta love a restaurant with a bacon tasting menu!) This was paired with the 2006 Ponzi Vino Gelato - a nice, well balanced ice-wine style blend of Riesling and Muscat.
The portion sizes were perfect, so we were full but not stuffed, and the wine pours were such that we didn't have to take a cab home. It was a pleasure to get to know Dan and Susie, and I know where our next lamb is coming from. California bills itself as "the land of food and wine," but we have our own little slice of culinary paradise right here in Oregon.
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